Seed Size Variations
On this week’s episode, Travis explains how seed size variations when using a garden seeder in the vegetable garden. When using our Hoss Garden Seeder to direct seed plants in the garden it comes with six modified seed plates. When planting with the garden seeder this ensures you have the proper seed plates that will help you effectively direct seed and not overplant in the garden area. The #1 seed plate fits broccoli, cabbage, turnips, mustard, and cauliflower seed sizes. While the #2 seed plate fits onion and small coated seeds. Then, the #3 seed plate fits okra, carrots, lettuce, chard, and beets. Next, the #4 seed plate fits small sweet corn seeds. The #5 seed plate fits small peas and beans. The last #6 seed plate fits medium beans and peas and large sweet corn seeds. Travis is using the #5 seed plate to show the different seed size variations of peas. From largest to smallest, he has Zipper Cream, Mississippi Purplehull, Summertime Pinkeye, and Sa Dandy Cream Pea. However, the #5 seed plate does not fit all of these pea seed varieties so Travis has to take his drill to make the holes on the plate larger to fit perfectly. The Zipper Cream and Mississippi Purplehull fits in the seed #5 seed plate when drilled a little larger. While the Summertime Pinkeye and Sa Dandy Cream have a smaller seed size so they work better in the #3 seed plate. When modifying to make larger holes in the seed plates, Travis recommends using a step drill bit to accurately get the desired seed size. We also have blank seed plates that you can modify to get holes just right for the several different seed size variations. When planting peas they should be planted with 3 to 4 inches of growing space for each row because of their semi-vining growing habit. When planting peas on double rows we plant two rows about 6 inches apart, then skip over 3 to 4 inches and plant another double row. Planting on double rows allows us to get maximum production and save space in the vegetable garden. When harvesting peas, they should be picked when pods are full and shelling is easy. If they are not shelling easy they should be left in the garden to grow on the plant a little longer.
Direct Seeding vs. Transplanting
When deciding between direct seeding or transplanting in the vegetable garden it all depends on what type of crops you are wanting to grow. Meaning that some vegetables only do well direct seeded while others do better transplanted. Vegetables like tomatoes, kohlrabi, collards, peppers, and cauliflower all do better off in the garden when transplanted. While vegetables like cucumbers, peas, okra, carrots, melons, and turnips do best when direct-seeded. When transplanting in our seed starting trays this ensures that the plants will get accurate aeration for root ball drainage due to our vertically internal root training ribs. This in return will allow for stronger transplants that will be less likely to have transplant shock and produce a lot quicker. Another advantage of transplanting is the reduce the risk of pest and disease pressures damaging the plants in early growth stages. This also makes them stronger to resistant those pressures when they are transplanted into the vegetable garden. When direct seeding we recommend using our garden seeder that allows you to effectively and quickly plant seeds in the vegetable garden area. However, when direct seeding you may have to thin out seedlings to ensure there is enough room for growth in the vegetable garden area.