Pepper Growing Guide

Peppers have hundreds and hundreds of varieties in all kinds of shapes, colors, sizes, and flavors. A good place to start deciding really comes down to what you and your family like, how you intend to use them, and how much space you have.

While you can absolutely grow peppers from plants that are already established, we always suggest starting pepper plants from seed. Starting your pepper plants from seed gives you the opportunity to have access to unique varieties that commercial growers otherwise don’t as well as the ability to experiment with different types to see what grows best in your garden.

If you’ve ever explored the world of growing your own vegetables, you’ve no doubt heard the terms hybrid and heirloom. Heirlooms are varieties that have not been crossbred for 40-50 years or more. These varieties can be passed down through generations and keep their characteristics through those generations because of the careful planting to prevent cross-pollination.

Hybrid varieties have been specifically bred to have characteristics that are desirable to the grower. These characteristics can be anything from size, color, flavor, or disease resistance. When planting a hybrid variety, you have a much better idea of the characteristics of the fruit that the plant will produce. Most people tend to be much more successful planting hybrid peppers because of their improved disease resistance.

So which type of pepper do you plant?
Well, we recommend both. Heirloom peppers will have an unexpected yield typically, but what you do get is not only special because of its history, but the flavor is phenomenal. Hybrids are tried and true and will give you a great crop that is reliable. Plant both and experiment with multiple varieties.

Transplant your pepper seedlings by checking the weather and knowing that the danger of frost has passed and the pepper plants are firmly rooted in their start trays. Test the plants by very gently tugging on the base of the stem and if all of the roots and soil stay in tact, they are likely ready for transplant into the ground.

Stepping Up Peppers

If the danger of frost has not quite passed but your pepper plants are outgrowing their cells, transplanting them temporarily into 4″ pots will give the root system more time to develop while staying in a controlled environment.

Hardening Off Peppers

Because peppers are not cold hardy, they need more time to adapt to the cooler air outside of the greenhouse. This adaptation process is called hardening off. For peppers, it’s best to let the plant dry out a bit, cut off fertilizer, and put them outside during the day to let cooler air circulate around them to help with the transition.

Row Spacing – 3 feet
Plant Spacing – 12 to 24 inches
Planting Depth – Transplant at soil level

Raised Bed & Container Planting

Row Spacing – 2 feet
Plant Spacing – 12 to 24 inches
Planting Depth – Transplant at soil level

Drip irrigation will control the amount of water each plant gets and will push water into the soil slowly and precisely for maximum absorption. Too much water too fast can cause stress to the plants and keep oxygen from getting to their very deep root systems. On the flip side, too little water can result in cracking, low yields, and increased disease and pest issues, blossom end rot, and a host of other problems. A good rule of thumb is regardless of how you water your pepper plants, be sure they’re getting at least 1 1/2 to 2 inches of water per week but checking in on your plants and watering as needed is really the best way to manage irrigation for peppers.

Proper irrigation for any vegetable is important but probably more so with peppers. Being sure to not only water enough, but the right way will be a major factor in your crop. Drip irrigation is the only method we recommend for irrigating your pepper plants. Overhead watering is not a good option because having moisture on the leaves can introduce problems like disease and pest control resistance. Drip irrigation is the best option because the root system of peppers goes much deeper into the soil than most vegetables. Getting water directly to the base of the plant will help prevent excess evaporation, disease spreading through the crop from moisture on the leaves, and ensures water gets down into the soil directly to the root.

Harvest time for pepper plants depends on the variety you chose to grow and what kind of flavor profile you’re wanting. Sweet peppers usually mature faster than their spicy counterparts, typically within about 90 days. Some hot pepper varieties can take up to 150 to mature. The color of the pepper is usually a good indicator of the best harvest time.

Sweet peppers like the bell pepper are usually harvested when they’re full size. They can continue to ripen on the vine and change color from green to yellow to red and will sweeten the longer they ripen.

Hot peppers are similar in that color and size are a good way to tell if your peppers are at peak flavor. When your jalapeno peppers are large and dark green, it’s a good time to pick them. Overall, if you’re in doubt, you can always just pick one of the peppers and give it a taste to see if it’s where you want it to be. If it still tastes green, give it another week or so and check again.

Peppers have delicate stems so when harvesting, use a sharp knife or pruning shears. Leave a 2-3″ stem at the top of the fruit when harvesting and be careful to make a clean cut. Don’t yank the fruit and damage the stem, as it can introduce harmful bacteria while storing. Depending on the variety you chose to grow, some peppers have extremely high capsaicin levels and can be harmful if it comes into contact with your eyes or mouth. Because of this, always wear gloves while harvesting peppers or wash your hands immediately after handling peppers.

Like strawberries, carrots can actually be overwintered depending on your climate. As long as pests aren’t a present issue and the soil doesn’t completely freeze through and through, you can keep your carrots in the ground during the winter months. Simply use mulch or row covers and let the roots continue to get sweeter the colder it gets.

After harvest, cut the green tops off leaving about an inch or two, keeping the dirt on the roots, and store in a cool, dark place and use them as needed. If you’re storing fresh carrots to eat within a day or two, washing off the dirt is fine as long as you store them with plenty of cold and moisture. So a plastic perforated bag in the fridge with a damp paper towel will keep them fresh.